Raising a Healthy and Happy Baby Bearded Dragon

If you are interested in having a bearded dragon for a pet, you will have two choices. You can choose a full-grown dragon or you can do what many people today do and opt for raising a baby. If you prefer the baby, then there are some important things you need to consider about their care.

The first thing you need to consider is where a baby bearded dragon will be housed. For most babies, a simple 20 gallon tank should suffice. As they grow, and they will do so quickly, a 55 gallon tank will be needed. You can simply buy a 55 gallon tank in the beginning and save a little money if you would like.

Another important factor in the care of these little bearded dragons is heat control. For an adult, temperatures of 95 to 100 degrees are recommended. However, for babies you will need to keep temps at around 100 to 110 degrees during the day and no lower than 65 degrees at night. It is best to keep it a little warmer than 65 degrees at night because dragons don't care for colder temperatures and in some cases, long exposure can harm or even kill them. Warmer temps will also allow the baby to sleep better. These temperatures can be kept by using a ceramic emitting heater or a reptile basking light.

Another basic is food and water. For food a baby bearded dragon should eat about 3 times a day. Typically they should eat as much as they can in 15 minutes tops. In addition, to keep a healthy dragon you should dust all food with a calcium and vitamin supplement.

Even though a dragon's natural habitat is the desert, they can become dehydrated very fast, in order to keep your bearded dragon healthy a small water tray in the tank will suffice. In addition, try and spray mist the dragon once a day with room temperature water.

Lastly, one thing that many dragon owners do is to over handle the pet. You will have plenty of time to do this, let your dragon familiarize itself with its surroundings. While it may seem like the thing to do, it can be a traumatic and frightening experience for them. While they are babies, it is best to keep handling to a minimum. As they grow more accustomed to their surroundings and as they physically grow, that is the time when you can handle the bearded dragon more often.

The Nesting Tub: An Alternative to the Conventional Pond Experience

The "mega turtle tubs" or the large 40 to 50 gallon "place-on-the-floor tubs" with combination nesting areas are all the rage in "turtle terrarium" or "turtle tank" set ups these days. But there is an alternative that many have not considered and may be just what you may be looking for.

The main issue with a "mega turtle tub" is that:

- They take up floor space

- Can be a child hazard from a health and safety standpoint (Kids can fall in and touch the pet easily)

- Does not look like a piece of furniture (Can be an eyesore. They typically are relegated to the basement, a back bedroom or unfortunately to eat up space in a family room)

For the young teenager who is eager to have his own reptile the main challenge is getting a terrarium or aquarium setting that is satisfactory for both parties: mom and teenager.

Typically the major detraction from getting a reptile is the fact that a large setting is required. This makes for a major detraction in even considering a reptile as a pet. The tank on the floor is a major minus, because it eats up valuable real-estate. However, aquarium manufacturers have been in tune with the desire of the home owner to have pets on display and have developed very attractive aquariums as furniture items. They have made them almost as main display items which is a great plus for reptile enthusiasts.

Turtles in particular can be a challenge to house, seeing they require a nesting area typically and a sunning area. Lizards also require sunning areas, but too require their skin to be soaked to gain moisture to prevent them from drying out.

Turtles and lizards are on the opposite side of the spectrum when it comes to aquarium layouts. The turtle requires a large tank of water and a nesting area, where as the Lizard prefers a large dry area with a smaller water tank.

Both can be accommodated for with an aquarium and with a simple pool set up. In one case the pool is a nesting spot; in the other (for the lizard) the pool is just that, a pool.

The nesting spot is quite unique in that the pool is converted into a nesting spot, whereas the rest of the aquarium tank is filled full of water. The pool acts as a nesting spot and is filled full of sand or nesting substrate. The stair section acts as a ramp into the nesting area and a ramp into the pool area, or the filled up aquarium section.

There are a couple of benefits to this particular layout. First it allows the turtle owner to use a conventional aquarium which can be used as a central attraction without the eyesore and dangers associated with large turtle tubs.

Secondly, the nesting area can be removed easily, keeping the nesting-egg laying area intact. The rest of the tank can then be drained, or filtered depending on how the water is cleaned.

The lizard tank or lizard aquarium is easily accommodated with the pool concept. One side of the tank is filled with substrate such as gravel or sand mix and then the other side is filled with the pool. It is ideal to get a pool that is removable and has an incline up and into it. Typically an aquarium will be modified with a silicon-ed partition in it that will provided a barrier from the substrate and the water. Essentially the partition divided the aquarium into two section, the dry section and the pool section.

The problem with silicon-ed partitions is that to clean the aquarium the whole aquarium has to be emptied, which is a really big pain in the neck. The advantage of the pool is that it can be removed easily, cleaned and then put pack in place. This had a major benefit in that the whole aquarium does not need to be emptied and most importantly the lizard does not have to be put in an alternate spot while the aquarium is being cleaned.

In Conclusion...

We have reviewed two novel ways to keep the standard aquarium in your home, while being able to house either turtles or lizards. The pool is the key to both systems. One uses the pool as a nesting area, the other as a pool.

Rock or White Throated Monitor Varanus Albigularis

Rock or White-throated Monitor Varanus albigularis 

SVL 400-500mm; max. SVL 850mm, TL 1 750mm.

This very large, stout lizard has strong, stocky limbs and sharp claws. The skin is tough and covered with small, bead-like scales in 110-167 rows at midbody. The head has a bulbous snout, with the nostrils slit-like and nearer to the eyes than to the end of the snout. The tail is longer than the body and cylindrical at the base but compressed towards the tip. 

The back is dark grey-brown above, with 5-6 pale yellow dark-edged blotches. The top of the head and neck are dark brown. The limbs are spotted with pale yellow, and the tail is banded in dark brown and off-white. The belly is dirty yellow with scattered spots. Juveniles are more intensely marked, and despite the common name which refers to the white throat of adults, have blackish throats.

Biology and Breeding

This monitor lives in a tunnel that it digs under rock overhangs, or in a disused animal burrow, a hole in a tree or a rock crack. It is usually solitary and hibernates, semi-dormant in its retreat in winter. Its skin is usually dulled with dirt and grime, and sullied with patches of unshed skin. It is also well-adorned with ticks in the soft skin around the eyes, nostrils and limb joints. 

The diet consist mainly of invertebrates (millipedes, beetles, grasshoppers and land snails) although it will kill and eat any animal small enough to swallow and also scavenges on carrion; baby tortoises are frequently eaten. In defence it adopts a side-on posture and lashes its tail. It will bite and hold on like a bulldog; if held behind the head it usually ejects it cloacal contents, and finally it may sham death, hanging limp (but still keeping its eyes open). If this ruse works and it is releases, it scampers to safety at the first opportunity.

The martial eagle (wingspan 188-227 cm (6.17-7.45 ft) and ratel are main predators on adults.

It rarely tames in captivity and because of its size needs a large enclosure. The flesh is reported to taste like chicken, but this monitor is protected by Provincial legislation (CITES, Appendix 11). They are great wanderers and may have home ranges up to 28sq km.

Mating occurs in August-September. The female may occasionally lay her eggs in a live termite nest, as does the Nile monitor, or even in a hollow tree, but normally uses a hole dug in soft moist soil. She may dig several 'test holes' before selecting a suitable spot. In early summer (October-November) from eight to 51 eggs (53-61 x 35-39 mm, 32-46g) are laid, depending on the size of the female. The eggs hatch in 110-120 days in captivity (27C), but take much longer in the wild. Hatchlings measure 220-282mm TL and weigh 18-21g. Many clutches are eaten by the banded mongoose.

Habitat & Range

Savannah and moister karroid areas. Throughout the Savannah and semi-desert regions of the subcontinent, but absent from W. Cape. Elsewhere, to the Savannah of East Africa.

Subspecies

Only the typical race occurs on the subcontinent. It has 137-167 midbody scale rows and white throat in adults. A poorly defined race, V.a. angolensis, from Angola and adjacent NW Zambia, has large scales on the head and along the backbone, and retains the black throat in adults. It has only 110-138 midbody scale rows. 

A small species V. exanthematicus from the West African Savannah's has a more uniform colour pattern, lacks the white throat, and has enlarged scales on the back on of the neck and only 75-100 midbody scale rows; it is now treated as a separate species.

Leopard Gecko Lighting

There are two schools of thought as to whether Leopard gecko lighting is needed; one says no, because these creatures are nocturnal anyway so why bother to give them light. The other says, yes, Leopard gecko lighting is necessary so that they still have something to differentiate between night and day.

Here are some options for lighting (or not) your pet's enclosure.

1. Because these creatures need heating due to being cold blooded, you could combine heat and light. Many people recommend heat lamps to heat an enclosure and of course these emit light also, thus killing two birds with one stone. Use the heat lamp during the day and switch it off at night if you're sure that the residual heat will be adequate. Alternatively, switch it off and use a heat pad beneath the enclosure at night.

2. If you use a heat pad alone, then you'll need some sort of light during the day, as especially in the winter months, your home won't have enough light for your pet to realise that it's day time. When using a light in or near your gecko's tank, make sure that it isn't providing additional, unwanted heat.

3. To be able to see your pet at night when he's at his most active, use a light that won't confuse him into thinking that it's actually daylight. A red or blue bulb is ideal for this as it won't upset the gecko.

4. Set your Leopard gecko lighting on a time switch so that even if you're not at home, there will be a regular cycle of light and darkness, say twelve hours light in winter and fourteen hours in summer. However, it's best if you are at home when the lights go off as your pet will believe it's time to go out hunting and will expect to find food. Don't worry about your normal room lighting as the difference between the specific Leopard gecko lighting and your domestic lights will still be sufficient to signify the onset of darkness.

5. UV lighting isn't necessary for these geckos, being naturally nocturnal, but it won't do them any harm either as long as they have a rock or some other sort of shelter available. It certainly isn't necessary for the absorption of minerals and vitamins as it is with some other sorts of lizard.

6. It is necessary for your pet to be aware whether it's night or day as these creatures become lethargic and disorientated if left in the dark all the time.

I think that Leopard gecko lighting is necessary but do be careful of the extra heat it may provide and make sure that your pet has plenty of fresh water so that he doesn't become dehydrated.

Iguana Care Tips

Iguanas are magnificent reptiles and owning them means knowing them. Knowing about them will make caring for them so much easier. I highly recommend doing your own research as unfortunately some pet stores will tell you what you want to hear in order to make "the sale".

Here are 5 quick and easy iguana care tips:

1. I highly recommend starting your iguana out in a 20 gallon aquarium (or its equal). Before bringing him/her home, make sure the enclosure is ready for housing. Make sure your iguana enclosure has UVA and UVB lighting, heat lamp (I don't recommend "heat rocks" as reptiles in general tend to stay on them and can burn), hide box (babies will hide) and a water container large enough for your iguana to completely submerge in (they love water).

2. After bringing your iguana home, place it in it's already prepared enclosure and let it settle in for a day or so. It's imperative to allow your new addition to acclimate to its new surrounding. Once acclimated (after a day or two), start holding your iguana for a few minutes two or three times a day. This will help "tame" your iguana making him/her more secure and trusting.

3. Being a tropical to sub-tropical species of reptile, high humidity inside the enclosure will be essential (80% or higher), as is proper temperature. Temperature during the day will need to be around 88 - 93 degrees (f). At night, lower the temperature to 75 - 78 degrees (f). Use a UVB "black light" to accomplish this and place it on the opposite side of the "day" lamp.

4. Don't be alarmed if your iguana shy's away from food for the first couple of days. This is quite common until acclimated to its new surroundings. It's still vital to put their food inside their enclosure. Start them out with finely cut romaine lettuce and red cabbage (they love romaine lettuce) for a few days. This will "break them in" and prompt them to feed.

Iguanas can and will become "lettuce junkies" which can lead to malnutrition which causes Fibrous Osteodystrophy (metabolic bone disease) so its important to feed them a variety of different vegetables, fruits and flowers and in the percentages given below:

*80% vegetables (clover, romaine lettuce, squash, green beans, peas, mustard greens, collard greens, kale and turnip greens). 

*10% fruits (melons, bananas, grapes, strawberries, apples and pears). 

*10% flowers (hibiscus, roses, carnations and even dandelions). One flower to avoid is the azalea. Although beautiful, the azalea is poisonous (toxic) to iguanas, so avoid this flower.

In its simplest form: 80% vegetables + 10% fruits + 10% flowers = 100% nutrition!

5. Keeping your iguana enclosure clean is very important! If their enclosure is dirty, your iguana can become susceptible to parasites. Parasites can and eventually will cause sickness or worse kill your iguana (s). If you see fecal matter, rotting food, or clouding in their water, clean the enclosure immediately.

In conclusion, Mimicking nature is the surest way of keeping your iguana healthy and happy. 

As time goes by, you won't believe that your once little lizard is now as long as you. Once your iguana matures, you'll feel as if he/she is part of the family!

The final step is to find a good exotic veterinarian for your iguana. It's nice to know that if something should ever go wrong, you have an exotic veterinarian who knows your iguana and what it takes to keep them happy and healthy.

Leopard Gecko Mouth Rot

Ulcerative stomatitis, otherwise known as Leopard gecko mouth rot is an inflammation of the mouth and gums usually caused by a bacterial infection or a parasitic infestation. Leopard gecko mouth rot is a very serious condition which can ultimately cause the creature to be unable to feed or lead to cancer or severe jaw deformity.

The symptoms of Leopard gecko mouth rot are various and quite easy to spot. Bleeding gums, swelling of the mouth, blackened teeth and a yellow discharge appearing between the teeth are the major ones and of course, left untreated, the animal will lose his appetite.

The main cause of Leopard gecko mouth rot is a dirty aquarium or whatever living space your pet has. An unsuitable feeding regime or too low a temperature can also cause this disease.

If the disease has not progressed too far, you can treat your pet at home by ensuring that their enclosure is scrupulously clean with the temperature appropriately regulated at all time and that food is of the right sort as well as administering dilute antiseptic solutions such as iodine or medication prescribed by your vet such as antibiotic cream. 

However, if the condition has progressed to the extent of your pet becoming lethargic, being unwilling to eat and his mouth and gums reddening, swelling the yellow discharge appearing, then take him to the vet straight away. Once the infection spreads to the bones and deep tissue, your vet may have to surgically remove some of the infected parts and administer a fluid diet until such time as your pet is able to eat again unaided.

As with all diseases, prevention is better than cure so to prevent Leopard gecko mouth rot occurring at all, make sure that your pet's living quarters are always clean. Remove faeces, bits of uneaten food and any other foreign bodies and line the tank with paper towels which are cheap, easy to remove and won't be eaten by your pet, causing further problems. A wipe round with dilute antiseptic is also a good idea from time to time.

Ensure that the food you provide is appropriate for the size and weight of your pet and make sure that he has access to a calcium supplement at all times as well as plenty of clean fresh water.

Make sure that you examine your pet regularly for any abnormalities, not only around the mouth but the abdomen too where you might notice an impaction or other change.

If you follow these guidelines, then hopefully your pet will never develop Leopard gecko mouth rot but if he does, act straight away and take him to your vet.

Questions About Vivariums

This article is designed to look at some of the common questions asked about vivariums and wooden vivariums.

What are the important characteristics to look for when buying a vivarium? The actual requirements for a vivarium will vary depending on the species of reptile you are buying. Larger reptiles will naturally need a longer vivarium but, in addition to this some species will like to climb and will require a taller vivarium whilst others will prefer to stay on the ground.

• Number of vents - for ventilation, at least 2 vents are recommended to keep a steady flow of air through the vivarium
• Thickness of the glass - Very thin glass carries the risk of breaking when you are cleaning it which can result in an injury.
• Length/Height/Size - smaller or younger reptiles will be better suited to smaller vivariums than larger species. As a rule of thumb as big as you can afford is the best approach. This is especially important when you consider your reptile will grow. Try to find out how big they are likely to get and make sure there is plenty of room.
• Heating - Probably the most important factor for your reptile's health. Make sure you have the right wattage bulb and the correct equipment to measure the temperature inside the vivarium and find out the optimal temperature for your reptile's species.

Is there any benefit of wooden over glass vivariums? Yes, putting the visual aspects aside, Wooden Vivariums are less prone to cracking and stronger than glass vivariums. In addition to this, they also retain heat more effectively and reflect light much better than glass vivariums. The downside is that because several sides are covered in wood, it's not as easy to watch your reptile.

Is there any benefit in having a vivarium cabinet? Yes cabinets are very useful for storing your reptile accessories like bulbs, food, treats etc. They are also very good for raising the height of your vivarium and are usually designed to attach directly onto the vivarium to give better stability.

Do I need a tall vivarium? Some vivariums, for example the Vivexotic VX vivariums are designed to be taller which is important for climbing reptile species. With all vivariums, the most important consideration is the habits of the reptile you want to keep. Research the habits and traits to ensure that the vivarium you are purchasing is suitable for the reptile you want.

A Leopard Gecko Stopped Eating - What Shall I Do?

"My Leopard gecko stopped eating, what shall I do?" is a really common question found in any online forum about reptiles and that's because it's quite a common occurrence in these creatures, if you're not very careful.

If your Leopard gecko won't eat, an impaction (like constipation in humans). You can check this by gently feeling your gecko's abdomen which will feel lumpy if there is an impaction and you may even be able to see the lumps.

If you can feel an impaction, take the following steps:

If you are using a loose substrate to line your gecko's aquarium, replace it with scrunched up paper towels or specialised carpet. Whatever you do, do not use bark, cat litter or any other substance of a similar nature.

These creatures often eat loose substrate as a substitute for calcium so make sure that a dish of calcium is always available in their enclosure. They will eat it as and when they feel the need.

Dehydration is another reason why a Leopard gecko won't eat so make sure that there is always plenty of fresh water available. It should be changed on a daily basis.

Give your pet a warm soak for ten minutes a couple of times a day. Make sure that the water temperature is no higher than a gecko's normal blood temperature.

Take care to feed your gecko the right food. In the wild, they will eat grubs, worms, spiders and insects but in captivity, crickets are the most readily available food. However, owners do try to feed their pets with crickets which are too big; never feed a cricket which is longer than the width of the gecko's head. Give your gecko a treat and try to procure some wax worms or meal worms which may tempt his appetite. Alternatively, you can breed your own crickets so that you have control over the size at which they are fed to your gecko.

Give you pet specialist vitamin supplements, which your vet will be able to provide.

If your Leopard gecko won't eat after a couple of days following the above suggestions then take him to a vet and if you can't feel or see anything out of the ordinary at the outset but still your Leopard gecko won't eat then take him to a vet straight away and remember to tell the vet when your Leopard gecko stopped eating and any other detail such as what he last ate, which may help the vet to diagnose what's wrong with your pet.

Bearded Dragons

Bearded Dragons can make interesting pets. They stare at you with their beady eyes and make you wonder if they are going to move. A friend of mine would walk around with hers on her shoulder. It would blend in with clothes and I wouldn't notice it until it moved. While that is pretty cool, beardies have specific care needs that are important to their health. Here is a brief overview of their unique needs.

* You will need space for at least a 55 gallon aquarium for full grown bearded dragons. Screened lids should be used to allow for air circulation and illumination from a light source.

* Slate tile works best as it absorbs heat quickly and stays warm. It is also easy to clean. Juvenile dragons should never have a loose substrate. They can easily pick up and eat loose substrate which then gets stuck in the intestines causing illness and even death. Flat, not shredded, newspaper is best for hatchlings.

* Light, light and more light. Bearded Dragons are native to Australia and require full spectrum light for 12 to 14 hours a day. Make sure you have a place in your house that you won't mind the light being on a lot. Be sure to buy a light specifically made for reptiles.

* You will also need a heat light or basking light. Bearded Dragons are heliothermic meaning they lay out in the sun to get warm. Keep two thermometers in your tank, one on either end to regulate the temperature. The basking spot should be about 105 degrees Fahrenheit while the coolest part of the tank should not get lower than 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the 14 hour day. At bedtime the temperature can go down to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, but should you heat up the tank again the next morning.

* Bearded Dragons actually can eat a wide variety of foods. They are omnivorous eating plants and animals. Crickets will be their main diet. You will need to buy them as insects taken from the backyard can have unknown parasites. Avoid fireflies as they are toxic to beardies.

* Many green leafy vegetables are great for these lizards. However, avoid spinach and carrots. Too much Vitamin A can cause toxicity. You will also want to add a multivitamin and calcium supplement to your bearded dragon's diet.

* They are generally calm tempered and friendly toward people.

* They live on average 5 - 8 years, some have lived to 10 years.

* Like the beta fish, beardies are territorial and should be kept in separate tanks. If you want more than one, you will need a big house!

* Pogona vitticeps is the most widely captive-bred dragon and can reach on average a length between 18 to 22 inches.

Common Iguana Illnesses

An iguana takes a long time to get sick and a long time to get well. In the wild, sick and weak animals have to hide their illness or injury. Any sign of weakness will attract a predator and because of this instinctive tendency it is hard to tell when an animal is sick until it is too late.

The most effective tool for knowing when your iguana may have a problem is by paying attention to anything you feel is different from what your iguana normally does. If you think something is wrong then don't wait to take your iguana to the vet. Most iguanas that are seen by vets are gravely ill and it is often irreversible.

Signs of a sick iguana:

> Reduced eating 

> Change from daily routine 

> Discharge from mouth, nose or vent. 

> Stool changes 

> slight or dramatic limping 

> Swollen limbs or trunk 

> Muscle weakness, tremors or paralyses 

> Changes in sleeping, eating, body colour, alertness, weight, appearance and energy levels.

Metabolic Bone Disease

75% Of iguanas seen by vets are there for metabolic bone disease and nearly all iguanas seen are calcium deficient.

Respiratory Problems

Causes:

> Habitat that is excessively humid and not enough ventilation. Pathogens breed and can cause respiratory infections. 

> Excessively dry habitat. The mucous membranes can dry and your iguana can easily get infections 

> Prolonged exposure to cold temperatures

Respiratory problems can go from bad to death in a short period of time.

Gout

Animal protein causes gout in iguanas.

Parasites

Iguanas usually get pinworms, roundworms and tapeworms that live inside the iguana's body and feed off the blood supply, cause compaction in the intestines and steal nutrient from the digestive system. Parasites that are left will multiply, spread and can cause death.

Ticks and Mites

Ticks deplete an iguana's blood supply and also carry diseases. It is very stressful and irritating.

Mites are as small as the dot above an i, by the time that you notice them there is already hundreds. They breed extremely fast and suck blood and transmit diseases. They spend most of their time under your iguana's scales and hide in places that are most difficult to clean. Their eggs thrive at the same temperature as your iguana.

Injuries

90% Of injuries occur due to improper diet, specifically lack of calcium and inadequate exposure to sunlight or artificial UVB. Accidents do happen and if you think your iguana has broken or fractured a bone then you need to take him to a vet for x-rays.

Dropping or breaking of the tail

Even wild iguanas lose their tails, it's part of having to drag a long, fragile appendage behind them all day.

Never grab your iguana by the tail, if you do that you will end up standing with only the tail in your hands and your iguana in a different part of the room. It also happens that the tail can get stuck somewhere and your iguana will drop it in an attempt to get away. When your iguana is in 'over-drive' to escape he can also break his tail because he throws his whole body into the escape mode. It is very stressful event for both the owner and the iguana.

Claw Pulled out

If an iguana's habitat is not prepared and maintained properly then problems can arise. It also happens when they are free roaming the house and get themselves into places where they do not belong.

Too Cold:

What feels warm and comfortable for you can be too cold for your iguana. An iguana that are cold and stays cold is in a dangerous situation. When cold your iguana will slow down to a point of no movement and loose all moving skills. I know of iguanas that died because they were left outside overnight.

Overheating:

Signs that your iguana might be overheated is when he opens his mouth wide and pant like a dog. His colour will also fade and loose all brightness. He may defecate an unusual number of times in a short period. Causes for overheating is usually because the cage are not designed correctly and there are no way to escape the heat. An iguana that overheat will die in a matter of minutes if left in that situation.

Thermal Burns:

Iguanas get burned on hot rocks and these rocks should never be used. A human heating pad can burn your iguana if left on high. Heat lamps need to be secured and out of reach. If your iguana does get burned you can treat a minor burn with Nolvasan or Betadine. Pat the area dry with a clean cloth and then apply a thin coating of Polysporin. If you are not sure how bad the burn is then it is best to see a vet.

Dehydration

If your iguana is severely dehydrated his organs will start to fail and death can occur. You can test if your iguana is dehydrated by 'pinching' his leg or arm, the skin should snap right back to its original position.